[The Gourmand Next Door] Wild by Nature: Tasting the Two Faces of Sauvignon Blanc

By Preston Wilson, Special to Southpoint Access

We embark on a voyage of discovery, and that discovery is the wooliness of Sauvignon Blanc. In our short study, we will examine how a single grape can make such a scene. There will be similarities and divergences, but it is still the same grape. As promised, we will end our journey of the Loire Valley, but we’ll make an excursion to some of the newer pastures of wine in New Zealand. Allons-y! and away we go.

With that in mind, I will wrap up our tour of the Loire Valley discussing a very familiar grape – Sauvignon Blanc.  A grape that is native to the southwest of France, and it has made tremendous inroads spreading to the far-flung corners of the wine-growing world.  As the name (sauvignon means “wild” or “savage”) would indicate, it is a wild grape that is a prodigious grower.

The optimal growing conditions for the grape are in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, about two and one half hours south of Paris by car.  These two villages have made their way into the vernacular of American wine lists over the past 40 years, to the degree that almost 40% of all Sancerre exported is to the United States.

The terroir of the Loire Valley especially helps Sauvignon Blanc reach optimal maturity. The last ice age left the valley with large stone deposits that aid in developing the grapes. The large white stones can keep water in reserve from previous rains and snow runoff in the spring managing the vines’ growth early. Later, the heat retention and reflective properties of the “white earth” help to mature the grapes fully.  The evaporative qualities of the stone resulting in the “fumé” or smoke assist in combatting mildew naturally.  

Stylistically, these wines tend to be pale yellow in color with thin little tears in the glass.  The aroma is what will immediately provide you with information that it is a Savvy B.  On the tongue, you can forget about all of those surprising aromas.  It’s about the minerality of the hills and delicate stone fruit such as apricots.  These wines can be taut expressions of fruit and minerality and just the expressive bottle for an evening meal with friends.

For a different expression, we are off to New Zealand (only 29 hours by plane from Paris).  Though New Zealand is relatively young (geologically and oenologically), it is producing some of the best expressions of the Sauvignon Blanc grape.  Accounting for 87% of all wine production, Sauvignon Blanc has found great favor with the Kiwis.  

Grown on the South Island in the region of Marlborough, the Sauvignon Blanc grape accounts for nearly all white wine production.   In contrast, these vines are grown on sandy, silty soils that do not have the same mineral edge as the French.  The tradeoff here is the fruit of the grape is really present, and hugely quaffable.  The aromatics are still evocative of herbs, green peppers, and grass. This lack of mineral edge leads New Zealand wines to being some of the most impressive wines that can be drunk very, very young.  Unlike some wines, there is no need to cellar these wines for any length of time, and indeed, it is immensely fun to uncap a great bottle on the back porch.  Discount these wines at your own peril.

Overall, the hallmark of Sauvignon Blanc is the herbaceous nature of its aroma.  Smelling this should provide you with an immediate a-ha! moment.  The taste of the wine is decidedly less herbal.  The range of flavors can be quite complex, ranging from tropical fruits to citrus to stone fruits and secondarily floral notes accenting the palate.  Similarly, the body of the wine can be either lean and structured or round and flabby.  This wine is wild.

Sauvignon Blanc is a wine that is made for the pleasure of drinking.  One does not necessarily need to think of all the nuances of wine production but understanding some of these can lead to choices that reflect your preferences.  But with that in mind, find a bottle and enjoy!   À votre santé!

Wine(s) for Thought:

Cédrick Bardin “Pouilly-Fumé, Les Bernadats″ 2023. 100% Sauvignon Blanc.  Pouilly-sur-Loire, France.  Terra Vitis Certified. 

• Sight : Pale, clear yellow with thin tears.
• Aroma: Fresh grass, limestone, and stewed apricots.  Very delicate.
• Palate: Dry and delicate with ripe green apple, mushroom compost, and medium-length acid.
• Notes: Flinty and mineral expression of Sauvignon Blanc. Super delicate in both nose and  mouth, but very nuanced and full of depth and complexity.  Will be very well paired with grilled meaty fish and vegetables.
• Source: Wine Authorities, $31.

Preston Wilson is a metric system enthusiast and professionally trained chef and sommelier.