By Preston Wilson, Special to Southpoint Access
There’s a word that has come up in passing in earlier articles that deserves a deeper look: biodynamics. It’s an agricultural approach, a philosophy, and yes, a controversy. Like terroir, biodynamics is wrapped in myth, rigor, and a certain “French-ness” that makes it both compelling and confounding.
So what exactly is biodynamics, and why should you care?
In simple terms, it’s a method of farming that treats the vineyard as a living, interdependent organism, focusing not just on the yield of the grapes, but on the health of the soil, plants, and surrounding ecosystem. Think of it as organic farming taken a step further.
In a 1990 study, microbiologists Claude and Lydia Bourguignon famously observed, “There is more life in the Sahara Desert than in some vineyards in the Côte d’Or.” Years of research revealed that widespread use of pesticides and herbicides was sterilizing vineyard soils. The quote may not have shocked everyone, but it did make people pay attention.
Biodynamic farming is all about the whole vineyard – compost, minimal intervention, harvest timing, and soil composition. In 1989, Nicolas Joly began applying biodynamic principles to his vineyard in Savennières, in the Loire Valley, after reading Agriculture, a 1924 text by Rudolf Steiner advocating a holistic approach to farming. Joly’s efforts inspired many winemakers in the region and far beyond.
At its core, biodynamics is organic farming – plus. It involves specific practices to foster resilient, healthy soil that can manage its own problems. For example, vignerons plant cover crops between vine rows to avoid monoculture. Monoculture – growing only a single crop – limits microbial diversity and weakens the soil structure, making the vineyard more vulnerable to disease and pests. Cover crops act as a natural “firebreak,” reducing the spread of pathogens and pests.
These interplanted crops also create competition for soil moisture, which encourages grapevines to dig deeper – sometimes 12 to 20 feet – tapping into the true character of the land. This, in turn, enhances the concept of terroir, allowing the grape to express the place it comes from.
Some biodynamic practices, such as planting by lunar cycles or using fermented herbal sprays, are harder to quantify in terms of measurable results. Others, like reduced tilling or thoughtful use of sulfur, are more familiar to organic farmers. But the aim remains the same: to cultivate a self-sustaining vineyard that produces quality wine year after year.
Having visited a few wineries that practice biodynamics, it’s clear how much these vignerons revere the land. Their relationship to the soil often borders on the spiritual. They’ll tell you that 85 to 90% of a wine’s character comes from the vineyard itself. Their job is to let the wine tell the story of that year – the triumphs and the struggles.
The results speak for themselves. Wines from biodynamic vineyards don’t just reflect technical precision; they resonate. They don’t recite formulas; they sing the year’s poem. And perhaps the greatest benefit is this: the land remains viable, vibrant, and capable of supporting winemaking for generations.
Wine for Thought:
François Chidaine “Touraine” 2023
100% Sauvignon Blanc | Saint-Julien-de-Chédon, Touraine, France | Biodynamic
- Sight: Clear, deep yellow with a hint of green and thin, viscous tears.
- Aroma: Moderate nose of unripe green apple, fresh grass, and green bell pepper.
- Palate: Grapefruit and herbs blend smoothly on a round body, with a long finish and medium acidity.
- Notes: A beautifully made Sauvignon Blanc, with the varietal’s classic green apple and herbaceous nose. The palate surprises with its crisp, dry grapefruit edge. Pairs perfectly with the region’s goat cheeses and is especially quaffable as the days grow longer and warmer.
- Source: Hope Valley Bottle Shop, $22
Next time out, we’ll do some comparison shopping from France and beyond. À votre santé!
Preston Wilson is a metric system enthusiast and professionally trained chef and sommelier.
