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As our travelogue continues, we make our way toward the Mediterranean coast and the wines of the Rhône valley. There are two distinct regions (North and South, how convenient) of the valley, and two defining characteristics shared by them, the river and the wind. These influences will inform how we approach these bold wines, and how to best enjoy them in the summer sun.
The area between Montélimar and Avignon (roughly Durham to Greensboro) is the Southern Rhône. The valley fans out to the flat scrublands that drowse their way to the Med. The region is littered with alluvial soils washing down with the Rhône runoffs depositing galets – large round stones – on sand, clay, and gravel, making the land easily arable for large production. Gentle undulations continue down to the coast as the river empties into the sea.
The Mistral is the wind that comes down from Switzerland, making huge impact on the wine growing. Positives of a strong wind: it reduces the chance of mold and mildew settling on the leaves of the vine, which Syrah is very susceptible to. That’s great, but I sense a downside. Yep, it blows strong enough to strip the vines of their leaves, thus no grapes. Very bad. However, vignerons created a solution by planting at an angle to assist the vine growing upright over time. Unseen, but certainly felt, the Mistral shapes the Southern Rhône.
A few historical events happened that bear remarking on this region. The Greeks set up shop in Marseille in the 600s BCE and promptly began cultivating vines and making wine. So, wine production has been going strong for a while. More recently, the papacy moved from Rome to Avignon in the 14th century, and with it came the need for a new summer home. Thus, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the pope’s new castle. Once a grand château on the highest hill. Now, not much of a sight.
The modern defining moments bring huge change to the region, France, and the world at large. In 1866, phylloxera is discovered in the vines of the Southern Rhône. There is not enough time and space available here to outlay the amount of devastation wrought. However, it ushered in the beginnings of the AOP. This was set up to end the rampant fraud and corruption facing French wine in the aftermath of the vine louse blight. The first official AOP was created for Châteauneuf-du-Pape in 1936. Thanks to these vignerons, wine was brought into the modern(ish) age.
Now we understand a bit about the area, so what do we expect from the wines here? With the propensity of the wines being red, typical notes are dark cherry, blackberry, cassis flavors moderated with thyme, lavender, and the scrub brush, garrigue. There is a boldness that structures the wine, and it is Syrah that provides it. A black grape that is high in tannin, acid, powerful aroma, and alcohol composes the core strength of these wines. This is why most of the wines here are blended with Grenache or Mourvèdre (and 15 possible other grapes) to balance the wine into something approachable when young. If you love those big and robust flavors, these wines will fit that bill. However, should you want to be soothed by wine, it can be accomplished either with aging (spend a few years in the bottle) or a higher concentration of the other grapes to blend.
Since it’s summer, the grill beckons to be used. Matching the intensity of the wine to the intensity of the flame-kissed foods is certainly a great option. The crus (in red on the map) are where you will find the best examples of the Southern Rhône. A hallmark producer of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, which can be approached earlier in life but is wondrous as it ages. Should the heat be a bit too much now, the AOP of Tavel produces only rosés that are of great structure and finesse.
On our next adventure, we will visit the lands of the Northern Rhône and discover how the terrain, the wind, and wines differ and complement their southern cousins. Until we meet again. À votre santé!
Wine for Thought:
Les Vignerons du Castelas. “Domaine Respelido” 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Clairette. Tavel AOP, France.
- Sight: Deep Apricot; clear with medium, languid tearing.
- Aroma: Wild strawberries, thyme, and an undercurrent of stone; medium intensity.
- Palate: Fresh strawberries with thyme and fennel underpinnings, well rounded. Bright acid, limestone minerality, and tannic structure on the finish.
- Notes: A distinctive rosé that has the structure and finesse to pair alongside most Mediterranean cuisines, especially bouillabaisse and heartier grilled game fowl. Very well-presented and has the potential for 3-5 years of ageing to fully round the palate.
- Source: Hope Valley Bottle Shop, $20
