We’ve had some time to digest (insert groan here) what it means to taste wine in isolation and as best expressed as food. Now it’s back on the road for us again, moving to the outskirts of France. About a 4-hour drive from Paris east and south is the départment of Alsace (pronounced “ALL-sauce”).
Alsace is subtly different from the rest of France. The geology, weather, and foreign influence play a significant role in this difference. The Teutonic efficiency with which everything moves, breathes, and survives bears more resemblance to its eastern neighbors – Switzerland to the south, Germany to the east (and Prussia before that) – than Burgundy. It is an area that is diverse with myriad soils formed after the Vosges Mountains began their upward thrust. To the north is the Bas-Rhin with its limestone predominance. In the higher altitude Haut-Rhin, the soil structure can shift every 50 meters or so. This is where you will find about three-quarters of the prestige wine production.
Despite these differences, the Vosges is the common denominator (no math, I swear) that unifies this land. The mountains provide the rain shadow that protects the region from the worst of the weather and, as a result, it is the driest in France. By this protection, it provides a long and sunny, though not warm, growing season. Speaking of growing, Alsace is one of the earliest adopters of responsible farming. Hosting their first organic farming fair in 1981, the push for organic and biodynamic cultivation has become the norm of the region.
Which leads us to the regulations for the 51 different Grand Cru wines. No quizzes about where each is on the map, for now. Those good farming practices, knowledge of the terroir, and quality of the wine over the years helped to shepherd the way AOP to distinction. There are only a few things that I want you to know about these wines that will set you up for success in the shops. Here are the salient points:
- Each wine will be 100% of the grape on the label (no mix-ups here).
- There will be some designation (unless very old) as to the sweetness of the wine.
- Vintage (year) will be on the bottle.
- Grand Cru, if labeled, designates the best of the best.
Grand Crus have a very limited number of grapes they can pull from. Four to be exact, but the top two grapes are Reisling and Gewurztraminer. These Rieslings are not the sickly-sweet offerings of the blue nun, but composed and lean with higher acid. Gewurztraminer is a grape that is heady with spiced aromas, thus the name. Unlike the kids in Loire, these wines are relatively low acid, thus the ripeness of the grape will be amplified. Crucially, these proclamations of grape will help to determine the overall taste of the grape.
Furthermore, it is now common practice to provide information on the label as to the sweetness of the wine. Sec is the dry wine, and the more modern practice of the vignerons is to chaptalize (adding sugar) to the wine to “correct” less ripe wines. The demi-sec wine will be sweeter, but not fully sweet. These wines may be more rounded and fruit-forward in their expression. There are two other designations, VT and SGN, but you will not find these without truly searching for them. Both of these wines are more favored for desserts as they are fully sweet. Know sec is dry and demi-sec is sweet(ish).
As noted, the farming practices of Alsace have been increasingly trending to sustainable practices, and in the Grand Cru designations there are some further regulations. Each harvest must be done manually. Not like this wouldn’t be done otherwise (tractors falling down a steep slope aren’t good for vines or people). Additionally, the vigneron needs to designate that the harvest will be a Grand Cru by March 1 of the harvest year. However, the wine cannot be sold until June 1 of the following year. You can be assured that it’s in the winemaker’s best interest to treat those vines with the utmost care.
One last note about how to determine if a wine is from Alsace. The bottle is the tall, skinny one that never fits upright anywhere (except in the door of one’s fridge). But don’t let that (or the four dozen Grand Crus) deter you from exploring this exemplary region. Make room in the door! À votre santé!
Wine For Thought:
Domaine Paul Bardin “Alsace Grand Cru Eichberg” 2021. Riesling. Eichberg, Eguisheim, Alsace, France. Organic, Dry Farmed.
- Sight: Pale Straw with silver secondary coloring and thin, viscous tears.
- Aroma: Delicate ripe d’Anjou pear and jasmine.
- Palate: A silky ripe d’Anjou pear with latent minerality rounds out the dry wine with moderate acid.
- Notes: This wine pairs very well with salt-forward aged cheeses like gruyère and cheddar. The medium length of finish makes it very well suited for these scorching days.
- Source: Wine Authorities, $30.
